Wednesday, March 21, 2012

neta: now a little less excited to try masa

if you haven't noticed, i really like to eat.  therefore, it makes sense that i've surrounded myself with a group of like-minded friends.  last month, urbandaddy published a blip about neta, a new sushi restaurant in the village manned by former masa chefs, and my japanese feasting group (ironically, none of us are japanese) started throwing dates out.  our schedules are all a little bit crazy so i took matters into my own hands and just picked my next available date and made a reservation for four.  this date only worked for two of us (it should have been three, but one passed for a backgammon tournament...huh???), and i also included my friend julie (perfect, since her husband was out of town).

the space is cozy with a large extended sushi bar similar to soto down the street.  we were seated at a table (i had requested the sushi bar, but i guess there was a miscommunication) and had a chance to peruse both the menu and the wine list.  they have a concise cocktail and wine list and a bit more thorough sake selection (don't expect sakagura).  we started with the sparkling sake which was a fine aperitif, and maneuvered through the rest of the sake menu (with carafes, 300ml and 720ml size bottles, it gives an opportunity to taste a number).  

as for food, we went with the higher-priced omakase menu; we thought this would give us the most fitting representation of the best the chefs had to offer.  the meal began on an incredibly amazing note - toro tartare with a large dollop of caviar.  served with little toasts - this was KILLER. 

toro tartare & caviar
next up, cooked slices of scallop served in the scallop shell in a gingery, buttery, briney sauce with a big lobe of uni (sea urchin) on top.  this was visually impressive, and the buttery sauce was wonderful (i confess: i drank it from the shell), but the scallop was overcooked.  and the uni...my favorite uni... it just didn't measure up to the quality of sushi yasuda's uni.  

grilled whole scallop
our next course was the fried blowfish (aka fugu), which was another notch down.  first it was really greasy.  i'm generally not one to complain about greasiness, but i expected it to be light.  then there was that giant bone in the middle, off of which i had to gnaw the fish... it was a very... authentic asian experience.  and i'm alive to speak of it!

battered & fried blowfish
the next course went in an interesting direction: a small dish of fried rice with shaved black truffles.  since we'd be eating rice with the sushi, i was surprised that the omakase would include rice.  now, i heart black truffles AND fried rice, but perhaps it was the quality of the truffles, or just the combination of it all... it just didn't work.  the black truffles were too mellow... the fried rice, a little bland.  it just didn't work.

rice with black truffles
at this point, we were ready for the main event: the SUSHI.  full disclosure: ive never been to masa (the meal is $450 before drinks, tax & tip... we live comfortably but close to $750pp for dinner is more than i can stomach, literally).  with former masa chefs at the helm, you better believe i am expecting some amazing quality fish.

we received a number of nigiri: toro (this was really quite good... and it was o-toro, if you're wondering).  kanpachi, scottish salmon, sea bream, uni, grilled toro... other than the toro, they just werent that flavorful.  were they fresh?  sure.... but did they have the same briney bite that the fish at my favorite sushi yasuda does?  no.  also, the omakase was odd - there didn't seem to be an order to it in any way.

o-toro nigiri
kanpachi, scottish salmon, sea bream nigiri
uni and seared toro nigiri
after the nigiri, we moved onto maki... they brought us unagi & cucumber and toro scallion.  the seaweed wrapping these rolls didn't have the deep aroma that you find at other high end sushi spots.  i hate to keep comparing this to yasuda, but you can smell that distinct almost smoky seaweed aroma from when they open the box that holds the seaweed all the way until the roll touches your tongue.  the other problem with these maki were how loosely they were rolled.  very noticeable in the photo.  it felt like they were going to fall apart as you lifted them.
unagi-cucumber maki
close-up of unagi-cucumber

close-up of toro-scallion maki
we finished the savory portion with a vegetarian nigiri - ume, jicama wrapped in shiso.  we actually received this twice because the service was haphazard and confused.  i wish we had received the toro tartare with caviar twice!!  our final course, which was actually quite a palate cleanser, was a grapefruit granita, and it was very tasty (sorry no photo - we'd had a lot of sake at this point!).

ume shiso "nigiri"
our real problem with neta was the service.  the food didn't measure up to my expectations, but the service really ruined the experience.  it is very important for anyone who deals with sushi to know the source of the fish being served, e.g.,  uni is usually santa barbara, sometimes maine and then even more rarely, hokkaido - and i'd like to know which.  when i asked, the server told me SAN DIEGO... never in my life have i heard san diego until my evening at neta.  salmon is also a concern for me... i did some research on chilean salmon farms for work and learned that salmon are nicknamed the "hogs of the sea", and therefore, it's vital that you know salmon's source (whether raw or cooked), so when i asked, yet again, it took some effort to find out the source of the salmon.  on top of the lack of knowledge, there were lulls between courses to the point where we asked a few times if there were any courses remaining because we'd just be sitting around for a while.  since we went during their first two weeks, i hope they'll work the kinks out with time.

the bill was pretty stiff - about $275 after drinks, tax & tip, and considering the price, for my next sushi dinner, i will be returning to my friend mitsu at sushi yasuda and have the omakase dinner with wonderful classically prepared sushi served in a timely, well thought out order.

61 w. 8th street btwn 5/6th aves (closer to 6th)
new york, ny 10011
212/505.2610
reservations available on opentable

Sunday, March 18, 2012

date night: colicchio & sons

my girlfriend julie & i decided it was high time for a double date... our list of restaurants to try keeps getting longer (so easy in NYC), so colicchio & sons, which has been on our list for a while, had been forgotten.  we remedied that.

after meeting at del posto for a drink or three, we arrived on time (we like to be prompt) and were seated in their spacious dining room.  tables are well-spaced so that you hear little to none of adjacent tables' conversations.  it has a definite gramercy tavern feel but with loftier ceilings - which isn't really surprising.

we started our meal with champagne - the NV Vouette et SorbĂ©e Champagne Blanc d'Argile Extra Brut - which was recommended by the sommelier.  when im out, i like to try champagnes that ive never had/heard of (still in love with the multi-vintage gaston chiquet that we had at eleven madison park).  i was very pleased with this bottle - it was dry with depth and toasty notes.

we chose the a la carte route for a few reasons - the primary being that the tasting menus require participation by the entire table, and both husbands are picky eaters.

i won't go into details of our entire menu but here's what you need to know about the food:
- pastrami-cured duck from tom's classics menu: we asked if we could do it as a starter, but the waiter returned that it could only be done entree size. no problem - and it was definitely one of the best dishes we had so it was worth it.
- butter-poached oysters: served with celery root tagliatelle and a big dollop of caviar, it was a very rich dish (but too few oysters), and i went home and bought celery root the next day because i loved it so.
- roasted octopus: perfectly tender and the chorizo vinaigrette was an unbelievable pairing with it.
- pork entree: get this. pork two ways, one loin, one belly.  i love pork belly.

i had the pancetta-wrapped monkfish which was meaty and good, but not memorable.  julie had the sirloin which was also well-prepared, but not very exciting.  the worst dish, however, was the potato gnocchi with suckling pig ragout - not only was it boring to the eye, it was bland on the tongue.  sigh.

after our champagne, we ordered a red wine suggested by one of our lovely servers, daniel: the chateau la vieille cure fronsac 2001 - a MAGNUM.  we love to go big, so this was so fitting.  it was the perfect bottle, a medium-bodied red with high drinkability, low tannic structure, dry, not too fruity.  it worked so well, we could even drink it with our cheese course at the end.

the label from the MAGNUM at dinner - dan & chase saved us the label and attached it to a note for us - adorable!
i would like to note that the service at colicchio & sons was really quite extraordinary - daniel & chase really did their best to make us feel comfortable with everything without ever being intrusive or annoying.  we look forward to returning to try out the tap room, where they have a more casual menu - another nod to the gramercy tavern mold.

colicchio & sons
85 10th avenue btwn 15/16th sts
new york, ny 10011
212/400.6699