Monday, September 15, 2008

genuinely delicious

i'm not really sure why i even bothered to leave laguardia airport, since 11 hours after i was picked up, a car dropped me and my S.O. straight back to American Airlines, but this time, i was headed to Miami.

i have been looking forward to this trip for a while solely because i've wanted to try michael's genuine food & drink. it's been on everyone's chowhound radar, and then frank bruni wrote it up in his "restaurants that count" 4-part article a few months ago!

we made a reservation (sunday, 5:30pm - i prefer to eat early, if i can), and during my downtime in china, i researched the menu (non-chinese food was on my mind a lot), the reviews, even the wine list, so by the time we arrived at the restaurant, i was ready to go.

the restaurant is located in an up-and-coming neighborhood, the design district, which, verified by our waitress, isn't the safest neighborhood at night. the little plaza, however, where michael's also has outdoor seating, is adorable, with the feel of belden lane in san francisco or stone street in new york. the interior feels like it should be warm as you enter, with a long dark bar and open kitchen with even some counter seating, but the high ceilings (which we generally love), white walls, modern lighting and the stoic hostess gave me more of a stark, cold vibe.

service was attentive, especially because of our early reservation. i liked our server jeanne (i think) who was sweet without being annoying or intrusive. the busboys cleared, provided and were polite and not bumbling.

the food, as it should be, was the real star. we ate so much; i'm just going to list it out:
-cheese of the week: brunet from piedmont, italy, served with a port-wine reduction, honeycomb and raisin-walnut bread - delicious creamy, runny goat's milk cheese; the bread was also perfect with it.
-the crispy hominy - i could've eaten 1000 of these lightly spiced snacks, they tasted like homemade puffed cheese doodles, without the cheese; great with a squeeze of lime
-deviled eggs - these were good, creamy, but i wouldn't need to order them again
-potato chips with caramelized onion dip - i was disappointed that the chips weren't crispy and that the onion pieces were so long - it was hard to pick up the dip and get some onion because all the onion strings were intertwined
-fried pork belly & watermelon salad - this was the best dish of all - i don't know how but the red onion, watermelon, pork belly, pepitas and dressing married so beautifully (so creative... i would never think of adding watermelon)
-crispy beef cheek - this reminded me a bit of tender chicken-fried steak (which i love), and i loved this too - the celeriac was very mellow, and i had no idea there was chocolate in the sauce - it looked more like a whole-grain mustard sauce
-blt salad - i wanted this to be more like the fried pork & watermelon, with chunks of pork rather than a slice, but the tomatoes were so seasonal and delicious, and the frisee was, visibly, so lightly dressed, you wouldn't know it was dressed unless you tasted it. the blue cheese, although tasty on its own, killed the taste of my wine (a bottle of the Etude 2006 rose), so i probably would not order this again.
-homemade fettucine - our night had wild mushrooms in addition to the artichokes, chunks of house-smoked bacon, fiore sardo cheese; the pasta had amazing texture. this is exactly what i needed to satisfy the food cravings from being deprived of western food in china.
-slow-roasted pork shoulder - perfectly tender, but there's a spice on the outside crust that i didn't like - i haven't yet determined what it is. my S.O. loved this dish though. tasted great with the pickled onion and cheese grits, and a sprinkling of salt.
-wood-oven roasted grouper - i didn't need this dish, but it was really so good, i'm so happy we got it. the accompanying roasted brussels sprouts with pancetta were slightly sweet, firm but so yums. and the lemon aioli was a wonderful dipper.
-french fries - i don't usually give credit to french fries, but my S.O. loves fries, and we get them almost everywhere, and he said these were one of the best fries he's ever had - perfect medium thickness, dark and crispy with some skin - so that says a lot. paired with the lemon aioli from the grouper, mmm.
-candy bar special dessert - i wish we had gotten the lemon pot de creme on the menu instead, but our server highly recommended this dish. it was ok, but i wouldn't order it again. or take a bite, even if someone else got it and offered me some. just not worth the calories, when there are so many other delicious things.

so i really enjoyed this restaurant. i wish they had michael's genuine in new york... this would be a HUGE HIT! plus it wasn't even that expensive... i mean, our bill was kind of pricey, but only because my S.O. let me indulge and order everything i wanted (besides the chicken liver crostini and sweetbreads, but i know he doesn't like either of those things, and it would've been outrageously indulgent for me to order those just for me, in addition to all of the above). so if you live in or near Miami, or if you're visiting, this is a must-try.

michael's genuine food & drink
Atlas Plaza
130 NE 40th Street btwn NE 1st/2nd Aves (Design District)
Miami, FL 33137
(305) 573-5550

Friday, September 12, 2008

20 hours in shanghai

i had another night in shanghai on my way back from xuchang for work, and this time, there was no time for massage, eyelashes or dumplings!!

instead, i met two english speakers as i was checking in at the lobby of my hotel, and out of the blue, one called me for dinner. i suggested jishi restaurant, this wonderful shanghainese spot that i went to last time, but when we arrived (without reservation), they weren't taking any more diners - it was overflowing with patrons and waiting guests!! upon cauvin's (the new lobby friend) recommendation, we ended up at grand gateway mall in xujiahui at a cantonese restaurant (average food, not worth writing about) in their crazy food court maze on the 5th floor!

cauvin's two friends (both shanghai residents, one an actual local) met us, and we decided to try xintiandi for after-dinner cocktails. the raucous crowd at luna (a mix of chinese and western faces) drew us in where there was a chinese cover band playing mostly american songs.

my friend malcolm texted me to meet him at velvet lounge, but instead of finding him in the crowd of non-asian faces, i met a slew of italians!! they were hilarious, welcoming and just a load of fun (two chefs who talked italian cooking to me... mmmm, i do love food, especially italian food), and after a few too many cocktails (evidenced by my pounding headache this morning), i headed back to my hotel around 3:30am. talk about making good use of my few hours here!

this morning, i'm checking out and going for DVDs - i've missed too many talked-about films (ironman, indiana jones), and annually, it's cheaper to buy them here than to continue my netflix subscription!! hopefully i'll also get some dumplings or street food en route!

i miss my massage and i really could've used a manicure AND eyelashes, but shanghai this way was pretty amazing as well.

Friday, September 5, 2008

the UES isn't that bad...

usually thinking about heading to the upper east side makes me grimace: there's always traffic due to the number of cars slowly hunting for street parking (is the UES the densest neighborhood in manhattan??), it's far (always more than a $10 cab) and it's generic (have you been the to restaurant pudding stones - spots like that are what make the UES so horrific). plus considering the diverse group that lives there (from super rich to 20-somethings sharing a 1-bedroom amongst 3), it lacks a relative number of good restaurants and bars. everything east of lexington ave (i wanted to say park, but i remembered lex bar & books) is pretty much Frat Party USA (one could say the same about my neighborhood, murray hill - but i live west of park ave).

yet, i spend an inordinate amount of time up there.

fine, two of my favorite people live there, but in order for me to continue traveling north, i had to find some redeeming factors about the UES (and obviously they're all drink... and food).

accademia di vino - the food is good, it's casual and cute, they have great wine and it's not expensive. my kind of restaurant.

gael pub tuesday night trivia - dave the quizmaster is quick-witted, the questions are actually hard, and the bartenders on tuesday night (shane & finn) are pretty attractive. note: the food is terrible.

the nook at dylan murphy's - dylan murphy's is a good bar, but the bar they created downstairs (called "the nook") is GREAT - it's cozy and has personality. plus they introduced me to the double espresso - delish. the owners (jack/blake) are the best.

trinity pub - it's a total irish pub dive, they redid it and now there's less standing room, and i hate their cocktail glasses, but for some reason, it's comforting (gavin's the best bartender - it used to be terry, but he's no longer with them).


accademia di vino
1081 third avenue at 64th street
new york, ny 10021
212/888.6333

the gael pub
1465 third avenue between 82/83rd streets
new york, ny 10028
212/517.4141

dylan murphy's
1453 third avenue between 82/83rd streets
new york, ny 10028
212/988.9431

trinity pub
299 east 84th street between 2/3rd avenues
new york, ny 10028
212/327.4450

Thursday, September 4, 2008

momofuku ko

sometimes i try to think of creative titles for my posts, but i think it's better to go straightforward with this one. i FINALLY got a reservation at ko (note, it was sunday of labor day weekeend). i was overwhelmed with excitement, but i made one mistake: i went out too late the night beforehand and was properly hungover and tired that day.

that said, the meal was really quite amazing. because i was hungover, i fully admit, my memory is not perfectly clear. but here's the general gist: inventive, creative, interesting and uncomfortable.

our first course, which i remember fondly, was a mini-english muffin topped with whipped pork fat and side of chicharron (pork rind). we did the premium wine tasting, and this was accompanied by a rose champagne. the english muffin... i could eat that every day of my life. it was moist and buttery, without, obviously, the butter. the chicharron was slightly stale. i've had non-stale pork rinds before so that was disappointing.

our next course was a long island fluke sashimi in some sort of poppy-seed buttermilk sauce. the fluke was amazing, but it does happen to be one of my favorite fish raw.

now it all gets jumbled for me, so i'll just list out for you what we had:
-sliced matsutake mushrooms in a bacon dashi broth - paired with a jinmai sake -- this was unbelievable, so many flavors exploded in your mouth!
-poached chicken egg, with caviar and pickled onions - i don't like egg, so this was just 'eh' to me.
-sweet corn ravioli - 3 little pillows - great flavor, but a little sweet.
-pan-seared halibut - perfectly undercooked, quite good.
-2 styles of duck - breast with crispy skin and the leg, cooked sous-vide.
-foie gras torchon (i asked if it was sawdust!) - i thought this was just WOW, but i love foie gras, with lychees and pine nut brittle. it melted in my mouth.
-kiwi sorbet as a palate cleanser
-yellow cake ice cream with peanut butter shavings and strawberries - paired with ximienez 1927 sherry -- a dessert i never would've thought i liked, but absolutely loved.

really, everything was very good, but i thought it would be more mind-blowing, and i was expecting more pork fat!! i'd like to go again (if i can ever get another reservation!), now that i know it's not mind-blowing, but interesting and delicious. also, fall and winter bring more hearty, savory foods, which is more my style.

my least favorite part was the seating. my butt HURT and legs were sore after the meal. the music was a little loud (they adjusted multiple times), and the AC was blowing intensely from under me. i was cold. the server/hostess - the one who poured our wines and took our dishes, was absolutely adorable and informative... and fun. she helped round out the meal. the chefs were not chatty at all. maybe it's just me?

momofuku ko
163 First Ave btwn 10/11th Sts
New York, NY 10003
no phone - reservations online only.